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Visiting Millesgården was an eye-opening, mind-blowing experience. Built between 1906 and 1908 on Lidingö, the large island just outside Stockholm, it began as Carl Milles’ private residence and workspace, and has since been transformed into an art museum and sculpture garden. Carl Milles (23 June 1875 to 19 September 1955), the Swedish sculptor behind the estate, is known for figures that feel playful and irreverent, often nude, sometimes exaggerated, with an almost cartoon-like boldness, especially when scaled up to monumental size. Among his best-known works are The Meeting of the Waters in St. Louis, the Poseidon statue in Gothenburg, the Gustaf Vasa statue at the Nordic Museum, and the Orpheus group outside the Stockholm Concert Hall. The museum unfolds like a small world of its own, with upper, middle, and lower terraces, the studio, gallery, maison, plus a restaurant and gift shop, and each area carries its own atmosphere and rhythm. Chances are you will easily indulge in a wonderful moment at any part of it. Millesgården is magical in spring and summer, when the gardens bloom with color, but the winter version has its own power: towering sculptures rising out of white snow, stark and dramatic, as if the whole scene has been carved into silence. And because the museum sits on a cliff on Lidingö, you’re also rewarded with a breathtaking view across the water toward Stockholm, a panorama that makes you pause mid-step just to stare.
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